Medan is the culinary and cultural wonderland of North Sumatera, not to mention a strategic staging point for excursions a bit further afield.
Text by Namo Vernon | Photos by Karnadi Lim & Bobby Wongso
Medan is today known as the capital of North Sumatra province, but in before that it was a trading hub that attracted ships from across the globe. Over the centuries, Medan became a melting pot of the Malay, Batak, Javanese, Acehnese, Chinese and Indian sailors and traders who landed on its shores. All this intermingling created a unique culture and left Medan with a particularly tasty culinary history.
When it comes to eating in Medan, it’s all about porking out. There are pork dishes galore in the city, being served up from roadside stalls to elegant restaurants. Another famous food in the city is Lontong Sayur. The rice is soft, with a mixture of coconut milk, spices, shrimp, eggs, carrots, potatoes and beans. The dish is pure Medan.
If you are a lover of fruit, it is easy to get oranges, durian and markisa, or passion fruit. Durian season, from June to December, is especially anticipated by fans of the fruit, which is something of an acquired taste.
For traditional snacks and cakes, you have to try Meranti (bolu gulung) and Bika Ambon. Why a cake named after Ambon is a favourite in Medan is anyone’s guess, but when something tastes this good, don’t question it.
But Medan isn’t all about eating. There are plenty of things to do and see outside of the kitchen and dining room, including visits to the nearby resort town of Berastagi and the famous Lake Toba, which is a two to four-hour drive from the city.
Istana Maimun
Istana Maimun is one of the major tourist attractions in the city. This palace was built in 1888 at the order of Sultan Ma’mun Al Rashid, who reigned from 1873-1924. The palace is a unique architectural blend of Indonesian, Persian and European styles.
Tjong A Fie
The house of Tjong A Fie is a Chinese-style building that was built around 1900, and is today located on Jalan Ahmad Yani. Tjong A Fie was reputedly the first millionaire in Sumatra and he had business dealings with everyone from the Sultan of Deli to the Dutch colonialists. The house is to this day occupied by the businessman’s descendants.
Mesjid Raya
One of the great mosques of the city, this is a symbol of Islam’s arrival in North Sumatra. The mosque was built by Sultan Ma’mun Al Rashid in a Moorish style and opened its doors in 1906. It can hold up to 1,500 people for prayers and is a major attraction for pilgrims from around the world.
Museum Bukit Barisan
The museum opened in 1971 and tells the history of North Sumatra and its people. The exhibits bring to life the struggle for independence and the early days of nationhood.
Graha Bunda Maria Annai Velangkanni
This temple was originally a destination for Tamil Catholics, but is now open to all Catholics who make the pilgrimage. The top of the gate is decorated with traditional Batak ornaments, and the architecture is in the Indo-Mughal style, similar to many Hindu temples. Inside, the whole building is filled with ornaments and paintings, all with symbolic meaning.
Museum Sumatera Utara
The largest museum in North Sumatra has an extensive collection of pieces from around the region, including arts and crafts from the many local tribes. Construction on the museum began in 1954 and it was inaugurated in 1982 by then Minister of Education and Culture, Dr. Daoed Yoesoef.
Klenteng Hindu Shri Mariamman
Shri Mariamman Temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Medan. It was built in 1884 and is still used by the city’s Hindu community for daily prayers and rituals such as the Deepavali celebration. Visitors are allowed to look around the temple, as long as it is not being used for a big ceremony.
Berastagi
About a two-hour drive from Medan is the Berastagi tourist resort in the lush area of the Tanah Karo highlands. There are hotels, restaurants and golf, as well as plenty of gorgeous views. Berastagi is also known by the nickname Passion Fruit & Orange.
This is the place to get back in touch with nature and enjoy the solitude of the mountains. The weather can be bit erratic, with sudden attacks of for or rain giving way to sunlight and gentle breezes.
This is also the place to pick up some souvenirs. Traditional cloth, bamboo carvings and some of the best snacks await those who make the trip from Medan. You can rent one of the many horses around and take a leisurely ride, savouring the feeling of being out of the city, with little else around besides you and your thoughts. Enjoy, and Horas.
