Stein am  Rhein is not your typical Swiss Village. This is a magical destination, full of romance and history, where the past mingles with the present to create a destination unlike any other.

Text by Antonius Martono | Phot courtesy Tourismus Stein am Rhein

Some places are just so beautiful that they stay in your memory forever. The last time I visited Stein am Rhein was in 2005, but I can still picture every detail of this Swiss village in all its vivid beauty. I vowed that if I ever got the chance, I would return, and I was lucky enough to get the opportunity recently to renew my love affair with one of the most beautiful spots in Europe.

The best way to reach the town from Kloten International Airport is to get a train heading towards Zurich and get off in Wintherthur. From there you can catch a train to Stein am Rhein, about a 30-minute journey through some of the most beautiful countryside imaginable.

Window on the Middle Ages
My partner and I walked from the train station, crossing the bridge and turning left into the centre of town, where we were welcomed by a gorgeous scene that has changed little over the last 500 years. It had just rained and the air was damp can cool, the scenery crisp against the hard blue sky.

Stein am Rhein is a small town that is home to a number of heritage sights from the Middle Ages, including the Monastery of St. Georgen, one of best-preserved medieval monastery complexes in Europe, and the Lindwurm Museum, depicting 19th century bourgeois and agricultural life. There is also the island group of Werd, where visitors can find the oldest house of worship in the Canton of Schaffhausen, a church dedicated to St. John the Baptist in the midst of the remnants of the Roman fortress Tasgetium, which was built in the 3rd century AD. And looming over the town in its ancient majesty is Hohenklingen Castle, which was built in 1225.

But Stein am Rhein is not some boring history classroom. It is alive and magical, electric with possibility. That is why I flew more than 15 hours from Jakarta to Kloten via Amsterdam with my partner, to recapture all those memories that have lived with me all these years.

A Town with a Thousand Memories
The most romantic part of this town is the town itself. The well-preserved historical buildings in the old town area create a cloistered and peaceful ambience. One of my favourite activities was having afternoon coffee on the outdoor terrace of Hotel Restaurant Adler. It is just opposite Rathausplatz, which is the best place to enjoy the legendary painted houses of Stein am Rhein.

The paintings, some biblical or historical in nature, depict tales of wine, vineyards, crafts, festivals and the full range of the human condition, were commissioned by the town’s wealthy residents in a display of the power and prestige. This is also a good starting point for exploring the town. Evangelist Church sits on one side of the town gate and on the other is a beautiful Baroque fountain. There are small shops selling souvenirs and restaurants, and a museum that traces the history of the area back to before the Romans arrived.

Dinner and Fairy-Tale Castles
My partner is the type who has to stay active during a holiday. It is not his style to sit with a coffee or a glass of wine and just watch the world go by. No, he wants to be out walking, exploring every nook and cranny of the city, getting lost in the narrow alleyways.

After a day of exploring, we stopped for afternoon tea on the outdoor terrace of Hotel & Restaurant Rheinfels. This is just about the most romantic spot in town. Located on the bank of the Rhine, the ancient hotel and restaurant offers modern service with a delicious selection of local dishes, to accompany the gorgeous views across the town.

If the weather is clear, climb to Hohenklingen Castle and enjoy views across the Rhine valley as far as Lake Constance and the Alps. The castle has undergone some extensive renovations since the last time I visited, adding some contemporary touches to the ancient beauty of the original building. In some places, the oak steps have been replaced with glass and metal and lights have been installed, giving it a warm and welcoming feel.

My partner surprised me and let the castle staff know we were coming, so we were greeted at the main restaurant with glasses of Champagne before being led to a private spot. The atmosphere of this elegant room was comforting and warm, with lots of rich oak and medieval ornaments. (I really wanted to take one of the round antique lamps home with me.) The restaurant has a great selection of local dishes, taking guests on a taste tour of the region.

If you visit in spring or summer, make reservations to dine in the castle’s arbour area, which is located on the highest ground and commands sweeping views of the surrounding region and river, giving you the complete fair-tale experience for your romantic dinner. Me, I’m not that demanding, especially when I’m on holiday with the one I love.

Where to go for a romantic meal:

Hotel Restaurant Adler
Rathausplatz 2,
8260 Stein am Rhein
Phone. +41 (0)52 742 61 61
hotel-adler@bluewin.ch
www.adlersteinamrhein.ch

Burg Hohenklingen
Hohenklingenstrasse 1
8260 Stein am Rhein
Phone. +41 (0)52 741 21 37
www.burghohenklingen.ch

Hotel Restaurant Rheingerbe
Schiffländi 5
8260 Stein am Rhein
Phone. +41 (0) 52 741 29 91
www.rheingerbe.ch

Restaurant Salmenstübli, Café
Understadt 15
8260 Stein am Rhein
Phone. +41 (0) 52 741 26 52

Restaurant Chlosterhof
8260 Stein am Rhein
Phone. +41 (0) 52 742 42 42
mail@chlosterhof.ch
www.chlosterhof.ch

Weinstube zum Rothen Ochsen
Rathausplatz 9
8260 Stein am Rhein
Phone. +41 (0) 52 741 23 28
weinstube@rother-ochsen.ch
www.rother-ochsen.ch

Rhy Lounge Bar Restaurant
Oehningerstrasse 10
8260 Stein am Rhein
Phone. +41 (0) 52 741 66 70
roman.bach@rhylounge.com
pia.rasmussen@rhylounge.com
www.rhylounge.com

Where to go for romantic snapshots:

The painted townhouses on Rathausplatz – Living art
In the charming and picturesque streets surrounding City Hall are a number of houses whose walls are covered in paintings dating back to the 16th century. City Hall was formerly a market place, and also contains a Council Hall (visit by appointment only) and a museum with a collection of armour, weapons, banners and flags.

Church and Roman fortress – Where church services were once held
The oldest religious site in Canton Schaffhausen is the hilltop Evangelist and John the Baptist Church. It has legally and structurally a varied, complicated history and is located on the remains of a 3rd century Roman castle, Tasgetium. Even today, remnants of walls can be found in the centre of the present church.